Amidst all the overhyped ingredients in the skincare world, there is one ingredient that hasn’t got enough attention: Allantoin. Widely used in Korean skincare products, allantoin is believed to be a wonder ingredient for sensitive skin.
We discussed with Dr. Kaustav Guha, the lead scientist and head of R&D at SkinKraft laboratories, to learn about this skin-friendly ingredient that may soon become a beauty buzzword.
Highlights:
What Is Allantoin & What Does It Do To Your Skin?
Allantoin is found in plants like chamomile, wheat sprouts, sugar beet and comfrey [1], a herb with purple flowers. It is a 5-ureidohydantoin or glyoxyldiureide with the chemical formula C4H6N4O3 [2]. Besides plant sources, allantoin is naturally present in certain types of bacteria and animals. German scientists synthesized it from uric acid.
Allantoin has soothing, moisturizing and healing properties [3]. The leaves of comfrey plants have been used for centuries to heal minor injuries and swelling. The substance is a common ingredient found in many anti-aging serums today.
Benefits Of Allantoin For Skin
1. Moisturizing Agent
Allantoin moisturizes the skin to prevent dryness and irritation [4]. It is suitable for sensitive skin too because of its non-irritable nature.
2. Exfoliant
Allantoin helps in shedding dead skin cells. It is a keratolytic agent, meaning it can soften and separate out the cornified (tough) layer of skin. It keeps the skin smooth as the dead skin layer is now shed off.
3. Soothing Property
Allantoin has a calming effect on your skin. It is used as a soothing ingredient in skin care products.
4. Wound Healing Property
Allantoin is known for soothing injured skin and healing wounds [5]. It is often used for skin irritation and rashes.
5. Provides Hydration
Allantoin prevents TEWL (transepidermal water loss) [6] and can retain water in the skin cells. It can make your skin feel plumper and softer again.
6. Cell Proliferation
Allantoin not only helps in shedding of dead skin cells but also in cell turnover. Dull skin in aged people is a result of accumulated dead skin cells. Allantoin helps in cell proliferation [7], thus reducing dullness.
7. Anti-aging
Allantoin helps in the synthesis of collagen [8]. Collagen is a fibrous protein that holds the skin cells together. Think of it like glue holding the skin cells. Collagen levels decrease as you age, making the skin sag.
How To Use It?
Lab-created allantoin is found in powder form in many creams and lotions. You can use allantoin cream or serum twice a day in your morning and night skin care routines.
Cream Or Moisturizer Containing Allantoin
- Cleanse your face and neck with a mild cleanser.
- Apply and massage the cream into your skin while the skin is still damp.
Anti-Aging Serum Containing Allantoin
- Cleanse your face and neck with a mild cleanser.
- Apply the serum with a dropper or your finger all over your face.
- Follow it up with a good moisturizer.
Who Should Use?
Anyone with dry and itchy skin can use allantoin for calming the skin. If you are looking for anti-aging ingredients, allantoin is one that is worth considering. Have a word with your doctor before beginning to incorporate it into your skincare.
What Ingredients You Can Combine & Not Combine?
Allantoin works well with silicone and other emollients when used in scar creams. You can also combine it with retinol (anti-aging ingredient). Dr. Kaustav says, “Do not combine allantoin with exfoliants like alpha and beta hydroxy acids as this combination can trigger allergic reactions or skin irritation.”
Side Effects Of Allantoin
Allantoin does not have any side effects. It is non-toxic, safe and suited for all skin types. Even the sensitive skin types can opt for allantoin due to its calming effect on the skin. Refrain from using it in its rawest form - comfrey leaves, as it may cause some skin reactions.
Allantoin In Cosmetics
Have you had a reaction after using any lipstick, concealer or foundation? Now is the time to look for makeup that has allantoin as one of the ingredients. It will not only be soothing but also have a moisturizing effect on your skin.
Allantoin In Sunscreen
Some sunscreens can cause allergic reactions. If you are bothered by your current sunscreen, switch to one that has allantoin. Allantoin protects your skin from harmful UV rays and moisturizes it.
Allantoin For Acne Scars
Due to its soothing property, allantoin is a great fit for acne scars. It reduces the redness caused by acne and helps in cell rejuvenation. The rejuvenation process can lighten the scars and result in an even skin tone.
So when are you incorporating this multifaceted and safe ingredient in your skin care? Let us know your experience with it.
1. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3491633/
2. https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Allantoin
3. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/20877959
4. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4885180/
5. https://clinicaltrials.gov/ct2/show/NCT04046783
6. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/24445121
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